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Lear Jet Question

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STC

I was sure hoping to get a "NEW" autopilot out of the RVSM STC. Guess I'll keep hand flyin...lol....;)
 
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Lear Jet Type

The Simuflite Lear Jet instructors told our class that the most challenging airplane at Simuflite to get an initial jet type rating in is the 20 series (their Sim is the 25). If it is all you know then you can't compare it to anything. Starting in the 24/25 will make you an excellent Lear pilot in any model; even the 60 (another type rating). This was told to me be Dee Howard test pilots who flew all of the early Lear Jets. The airplane is a lot of fun to fly and you can almost always find jobs to fly cargo for the Ameristars and Cherry Airs out there. Good Luck and remember, with a straight pipe lear jet, you go fuel critical as soon as you start the second engine.
 
Yes there have been pilots who transitioned from pistons and king airs into the left seat of a Lear 20. It is interesting to sit in on their first recurrent. There are some interesting stories. Most insurance companies want to see some Lear experience before becoming PIC.

In the 20's if you fly fuel flow rather than speed, you do much better. As for flaming out, the engine sync or speed has little to do with it. usually it is caused by a FCU misadjustment. Many operators do not know or are unwilling to do the required maintenance check called a burst test after they change a FCU or engine. The Mark II wings' recommended climb speed is .70m. However, above FL350 it does climb worth a ****. It does much better above .74m.

Going from a 35/36 to a 20 is not too bad. Just have to get use to the fuel burns. But a 31 going to a 23/24 with no experience in the 20's will make for some interesting times.

As for taxiing on one engine, if you planned the fuel that tight in the first place, you probably shouldn't be doing that leg. Also some of the early aircraft have steering that really doesn't like working when taxiing at high weights on one engine.

Personally, I believe that RVSM for the 20's is a crap shoot. Until it gets certified, you don't know if it will happen or not. Also the price will not be firm until it is certified and the after the first half dozen or so roll out the door. The early aircraft, I have been told will most likely need a new autopilot. Time will tell. But most operators who are buying 20's right now are treating them like throw-aways. If RVSM haopens Great. If not, the aircraft paid for itself.
 
I was sure hoping to get a "NEW" autopilot out of the RVSM STC. Guess I'll keep hand flyin...lol....

Not long ago, I asked a mechanic why all those FC-200 AP's hadn't been upgraded to the 530 model. When he stoped laughing, he said I could buy a 20 series plane for the cost of an FC 530! I'll be the replacement of the 20 series AP would be similarly expensive, taking the cost of the STC into the stratosphere. I guess we'll have to see what happens, eh?
 
There is already an STC for a digitial a/p for the Lear. So the proving will be minimual. The biggest problem with the FC110 A/P's is that they will not accept digitial signals. The later ones seem to work with converters, but the early ones don't do so well. The FC200 while analog does work with a converter. I know of at least two 35's that have been RVSM approved with the FC200.

And according to the RVSM material I have read, the installed A/P must meet paramiters.
 
We just had a 35 go through the RVSM gauntlet last year. It took a while.

The STC for the 20 series might keep a lot of planes flying. Now, about the noise abatement problem...
 
RVSM

RVSM is still a crap shoot for the 20's. Until it is approved I wouldn't count on it. There are a lot of operators who are counting on it getting approved. And even if it is approved, it will depend on how much it costs. If it is too high we'll see very few 20's flying in the future. The quotes out there right now are $150K to $175K. But remember they original quotes for the G2 were running $250K to $300K. Some have been as much as $750K. In my opinion, if the RVSM stc goes much above $250K to $300K we will not see too many 20's flying.

There are way to many issues to handle. The autopilot, 2nd Flight Data Computuer, Pitot/Static system, altimitry, etc.

As for hush kits, there is a kit out there by Bizjet. Seems to work, but you lose the T/Rs. They have not sold too many of them.
 
Williams

Looks like it has possibilities. But the price is like $1.2 million. They have not and will not sell too many of these conversions. Cause you are now well into the Lear 35 price range. As a general rule, converted aircraft do not hold their values well.
 
Cheapest LR 25/35 type

Where is the cheapest place to get the type rating in the southwest U.S? One of my associates just needs the ticket to start logging PIC time.

Thanks
 
Lear Differences and tidbits.

This may sound trivial, the Lear 35 makes you a good stick, but rudder? The yaw damper goes on right after t/o and is disconnected in the flare on landing to avoid adverse dutch roll with fuel in the tip tanks if you get inadvertantly slow due to say windshear. The only time you use rudder is in the Sim or in a crosswind landing. The Lear 25 takes planning, unless you are getting the FJ44 mod (sweet) the CJ610s (same engine as a T-38 with no afterburner) suck fuel faster than you can believe 2200 lbs first hour (don't start down until you ascertain the weather and you are sure you can land) as compared to the Lear 35A which is about uses the TFE 731s is 17OO lbs first hour. Then you have a totally different Avionics package (EFIS) (FMS) in the Lear 31A with it's "Longhorn Wing" that climbs like a homesick angel. And than theres the Lear 55 a fine aircraft really, offering it's midsize cabin with 737-200 runway performance. The point is a type in the 35 will help but make sure you attend a good differences course preferably by Simuflite or Flight Safety or something comparable if you plan on diversifying in one of the other Lears. Hey go down to your favorite pilot shop and read Learjets published by Geza Szurovy. Its a good read!
 
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