And thus beginneth part two...
For those who have flown under these conditions, how often have you developed carb icing, and how helpful was it to use any of the above methods.
What kind of RPM drops will you notice.
In a fixed pitch airplane, that depends on your airspeed. In a variable pitch propeller installation, you may see no drop in RPM at all. Without a manifold pressure gauge, you may see no change at all until engine roughness occurs, depending on the speed at which the ice builds up. It can build up rapidly, so you should be constantly listening and looking for it.
My limited experience in IMC has been in and out of clouds and I have never encountered any indication of carburetor icing.
You will.
Some instructors I have flown with in the past have stated that the engine is warm enough to really preclude any carb icing problems.
The instructors are wrong. Inexperiened enough to not know what they're saying, or that it's a dangerous thing to teach someone. They're wrong.
Those who regularly fly IMC under these conditions, do you usually:
A) Keep the carb heat on with a leaned-out mixture.
B) Look for icing indications such as RPM or MP drops then apply carb heat until cleared. Returning the switch to the off positon.
C) Perioidcally check for ice digestion by applying the carb heat at intervals.
A--Keep the carb heat on with a leaned out mixture. Sometimes this is warranted...but you can't tell unless you have a carburetor air temperature gauge. Have you just moved the carb air temperature out of, or into the ideal icing range? Think about that.
If you're contantly applying carburetor heat because you keep getting ice, then leaving it on is probably a good idea. It's also a VERY STRONG indication that you need to get out of those icing conditions, pronto.
Yes, if you leave the carb heat on, the engine should be leaned, accordingly.
B--Look for icing indications such as RPM or MP drops then apply carb heat until cleared. Returning the switch to the off positon.
Look for indications, but your best indication may be a change in sound. If you don't have a manifold pressure gauge, you may not see much change. Try this. In normal visual flight, tweak your throttle back in slight increments, and see if you note much change in the RPM. You may not. Likewise, when you're getting ice, it isn't necessarily precluding airflow substantially yet. Ice tends to "breed" ice. A little can begat a lot. Once it starts to form, it forms faster or more. But until enough has formed, you may not see the indications of carb ice, and sometimes you'll hear them first.
If you have an aircraft equipped with a manifold pressure gauge, you may see a manifold pressure drop, or you may not. RPM tends to stay fairly constant in a constant speed engine installation (and in a fixed pitch installation, your prop RPM isn't just a function of power or throttle setting, but also of airspeed...you won't see much RPM decay until airspeed decays, and that probably won't happen much until you've lost substantial power...by which time you'll definitely know you have carburetor icing, or at least, a problem).
At the first sign of carburetor icing, apply carburetor heat. Don't wait until you have a positive RPM loss of manifold pressure loss. Carburetor ice isn't a deice system, it's an anti-ice system. It can remove small quantities of ice under the right circumstances, but don't count on it. It's there to prevent the formation of ice...it's proper use is in conjunction with a carb air temperature gauge, to put the carb air temperature in the right position to prevent the formation of ice.
Again, carburetor heat is NOT a de-ice system. It's an anti-ice system, and works best in the early stages of carb ice detection. You can always shut it off again. With that said, remember my earlier comments. Don't put yourself in a position where you must shut it off...remember the carb heat control that failed in my hand. That one involved both a carb air box failure and a failure at the attach point for the carb air control cable. Leave yourself an out. My mistake, one of several on that flight, was that my out was a power off descent out of the clouds in mountainous terrain. Don't do that or put yourself in that position. I was fortunate. Will you be?
Don't apply carb heat with the idea that you can just shut it off again. You may find that it's required continuously. Are you prepared to deal with the power loss...the same as just having moved a couple thousand feet in density altitude? If you're not, then you've put yourself in a bad position. Throughout the flight, if you're encountering carburetor icing, then you need to consider getting to a place where you're not getting carburetor icing. Getting out of the conditions that are causing the icing.
Remember, carburetor heat is a limited anti ice tool...it's there to help you while you get out of the conditions that are causing the carburetor ice. Don't stay in them, any more than you should with any minimal anti-ice capability. It's your powerplant you're talking about here. It's warning you. Listen.
C--Perioidcally check for ice digestion by applying the carb heat at intervals.
Also a valid technique. Be careful doing this at high power settings in high compression engines, especially when already leaned out. You can cause detonation by overheating the induction air for the power setting and mixture setting in use. This can destroy an engine in seconds. Use carb heat prudently. Using it to check for ice is appropriate, but remember to check not just for a second or two, but for fifteen seconds or so.
A good rule of thumb is that if you're going to apply carb heat, on the ground or in the air, don't do it for one or two or five seconds. Fifteen seconds. Count them off. Otherwise, you're not giving the heat time to melt anything that's there, and you may be causing ice to form, not removing it...and then you have no way of knowing.
A lot of people will apply carb heat during the runup for only a second or two, long enough to hear a change in the engine, and see a slight RPM drop. This is poor airmanship. The carburetor heat should be left on for fifteen seconds, time enough to see that there isn't ice that's already formed during the taxi, time enough to ensure that none has formed right before takeoff. Usually the carb ice check is the very last thing I do before taxiing onto the runway for takeoff, or if there's time, I'll do it on the runway as I'm holding with power, before applying full power. I've had engines quit, especially on a cool morning right after a rain, right on the takeoff roll as ice developed. Or on a go-around, after carburetor heat has been shut off and power applied.
Be ready for carburetor ice in the summer, winter, and all times. Any time humidity is up or visibile moisture is present, you stand a good possibility for carburetor ice. Apply it long enough to ensure the ice is gone, apply it often enough to ensure it isn't building up unawares, and apply it whenever you need it. If you do apply it and need it, get out of the conditions that are causing it, lest they exceed your ability to handle them (and they can, very easily). Always have a plan that's better than accepting whatever comes out of the cloud at you, and guesswork. And consider getting a carb air temperature gauge if it's your aircraft No aircraft with a carburetor should be without one.