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G200/Galaxy brakes-WTF?

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Is it just me or are the early serial number galaxy jet's brakes hard to get used to?

I don't think the serial number has anything to do with it... Gulfstream did implement a fix - It's called the G280... Problem solved!
 
Here's my theory, for what it's worth... The brakes are pretty much the same as the Challenger (which do a great job at 12,000 lbs heavier than the 200). The problem is there is only 1 hydraulic system taking care of the brakes and the deployment of the right thrust reverser. With the reversers locked out until the nose wheel touches down + 3 seconds, you are usually on the brakes first. Once the buckets start to deploy, there is an additional demand on the right hydraulic system and just that small, momentary pressure change is enough to start the duck-walk inherited from the Astra. Want to test that theory? Next time you have the right conditions, don't deploy the reversers and use only brakes to stop. Bet she won't even think about duck-walking. Or with a strong headwind, use the reversers only (even idle reverse) until you are slowed to a normal taxi speed.
 
After extending the gear, pump the brakes 3x.

Never noticed any difference with that. My personal theory is glazing. Thhe brakes are too big for the airplane, and as a result never get hot enough to keep them from glazing. Except for that precise moment when they are used at 100+knots, but then we ease off of them almost immediately. Not the way carbon brakes were intended to be used, to my understanding.

But then again, I'm usually full of crap.
 
Glazing is do to long application of brakes, making them too hot. Which would mean big brakes are less likely to glaze. Not sure how this gets reversed on airplanes or carbon brakes but I'm all ears.
 
My understanding was that they would glaze if they didn't get hot enough. I was once told by a D.O. That if you were going to use carbon brakes then light the suckers up because small light applications were harder on them than heavy use. The reason being that they wold glaze and become less effective causing more wear as they 'de-glazed' and the brakes would bite. I'm not claiming to be an expert, but I've never been able to prove the other two theories presented though experimentation.

Not sure how this gets reversed on airplanes or carbon brakes but I'm all ears.

P.S. Take it easy.
 
My understanding was that they would glaze if they didn't get hot enough. I was once told by a D.O. That if you were going to use carbon brakes then light the suckers up because small light applications were harder on them than heavy use. The reason being that they wold glaze and become less effective causing more wear as they 'de-glazed' and the brakes would bite. I'm not claiming to be an expert, but I've never been able to prove the other two theories presented though experimentation.

My ability to explain glazing would be uninterpretable to the layperson due to my advanced degrees in metallurgy, chemistry and training - or I am full of crap but still have an idea of what brake glazing is and don't want to F it up. If you think anything but the latter, you probably think that glazing happens from brakes not getting hot enough... I will offer that I am just having fun svcta - so take it easy... :) BTW - I don't know that my examples - others writings are scientifically accurate, but they demonstrate what I believe to be correct.

After you have installed the new pads, it is a good idea to break them in (unless the pads are the "fully cured" type that do not require an initial break-in period). Not breaking in a new set of pads increases your risk of pad glazing and brake noise. A driver can glaze and ruin a new set of pads if he fails to go easy on the brakes for the first 200 miles. If he overheats the brakes by mashing down on the brake pedal at every stop light, he can cook the resin in the pads before it can cure and glaze the pads.


Disk brake pads do sometimes develop a glaze which causes squeaking, etc. IIRC, heat can sometimes form a glaze on the surface of ceramic brake pads. In layman's terms, the glaze is like a layer of glass, formed out of the ceramic material in the pad.
 
My ability to explain glazing would be uninterpretable to the layperson due to my advanced degrees in metallurgy, chemistry and training - or I am full of crap but still have an idea of what brake glazing is and don't want to F it up. If you think anything but the latter, you probably think that glazing happens from brakes not getting hot enough... I will offer that I am just having fun svcta - so take it easy... :) BTW - I don't know that my examples - others writings are scientifically accurate, but they demonstrate what I believe to be correct.

After you have installed the new pads, it is a good idea to break them in (unless the pads are the "fully cured" type that do not require an initial break-in period). Not breaking in a new set of pads increases your risk of pad glazing and brake noise. A driver can glaze and ruin a new set of pads if he fails to go easy on the brakes for the first 200 miles. If he overheats the brakes by mashing down on the brake pedal at every stop light, he can cook the resin in the pads before it can cure and glaze the pads.


Disk brake pads do sometimes develop a glaze which causes squeaking, etc. IIRC, heat can sometimes form a glaze on the surface of ceramic brake pads. In layman's terms, the glaze is like a layer of glass, formed out of the ceramic material in the pad.

At the end of the day, none of this matters. The G200's brakes suck. Whether it's over braked, under braked, or just generally has a poorly designed, poorly implemented hydraulic system (my theory), there isn't much you can do about it except trade it in on something else...
 
My ability to explain glazing would be uninterpretable to the layperson due to my advanced degrees in metallurgy, chemistry and training - or I am full of crap but still have an idea of what brake glazing is and don't want to F it up. If you think anything but the latter, you probably think that glazing happens from brakes not getting hot enough... I will offer that I am just having fun svcta - so take it easy... :) BTW - I don't know that my examples - others writings are scientifically accurate, but they demonstrate what I believe to be correct.

After you have installed the new pads, it is a good idea to break them in (unless the pads are the "fully cured" type that do not require an initial break-in period). Not breaking in a new set of pads increases your risk of pad glazing and brake noise. A driver can glaze and ruin a new set of pads if he fails to go easy on the brakes for the first 200 miles. If he overheats the brakes by mashing down on the brake pedal at every stop light, he can cook the resin in the pads before it can cure and glaze the pads.


Disk brake pads do sometimes develop a glaze which causes squeaking, etc. IIRC, heat can sometimes form a glaze on the surface of ceramic brake pads. In layman's terms, the glaze is like a layer of glass, formed out of the ceramic material in the pad.

I have no idea if the brakes in a G-200 ae the same compound found on a typical Dodge, but ours were quite noisy. On both of ours airplanes as I recall. Funny how nobody, even the fine folks at Gulfstream, could explain why the brakes on that airplane are so dicey.

Either way, tt is right. They suck.
 
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