Just before you close the HP cocks for shut down, watch the "ARM" lights on the TR switches. As the engines spool all the way down, those lights should stay illuminated. You won't find this in any training book and most mechanics wont tell you but if that TR accumulator is not holding pressure (i.e. drain valve is stuck open or something) those little white "ARM" lights will go out immediately. You can verify this by having one guy in the hell hole watching the TR accumulator while the other guy shuts down the engines. If that accumulator goes right to 1500psi, you've got a problem. Unfortunately, this one is only good for a cat C MEL.
Here's another good check. This one is an actual documented pressurization check procedure but mx will only tell you about it if you report a pressurization problem. Its a mixing valve check. When your in a descent through the 20's, and the diff is well up there (max diff will work best but I think anything above 5 psi is good) you can verify that this valve is actually working. Reach up and shut off (all the way off) one of the bleed air valves. Wait for stabilization. Now, take the opposite throttle and slowly pull it to idle. While you're pulling it to idle watch the cabin rate of climb. It should not move much at all. If, while you're pulling the throttle back, you get a huge rate of climb that is consistent than your HP valve is not kicking in like it should (i.e. you're only getting LP air from that engine). This little item is not MELable and does put the airplane down (at least for an unpressurized ferry).
I also know for a fact that if inverter 1 does not pick up XS2 and XE, or if inverter 2 does not pick up XE and XS1, you cannot MEL it. It is a switching logic problem and there are no MEL's for it.
Metal tabs on the windscreens... they're always coming loose.
If you have any of the fiberglass parts of the jet that are eroded, like the vortalons, fairings, raydome, etc they can't have any erosion that gets through the paint and into the composite material.
1. Check to make sure you can turn on the ignition using the ignition switches. Just because the ignition comes on when you move the HP cock up doesn't mean the switches are working. It is a separate circuit.
2. Please make sure the steering pin bushing is in place. Also, when inserting or removing the pin, be very careful not to get the collar misaligned as it is easy to knock the bushing out if you are careless.
3. During flight, turn the autopilot off and SLOWLY deploy the air brakes. Make sure there is no roll left or right as they deploy.
4. On the back of the yoke in the center, there are little slots that should line up to indicate the ailerons are rigged correctly. In level flight with fuel balanced and everything trimmed correctly the yoke should be centered, and if it is the slots will line up.
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