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Golf Clubs

  • Thread starter Thread starter Swass
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Swass

So long, America.....
Joined
Jan 10, 2003
Posts
2,015
Titleist 690 CB's. They are forged, cavity backs. I also play Mizuno musclebacks, just depends on how much time I can get to practice. I have a Titliest driver with the Fujikura Speeder shaft, x-stiff.

Neither of these irons are particularly easy to hit, especially if you are used to cast clubs. I've heard good things about Callaway x-14 pro's if you prefer cast clubs.

Definately have to go with Cleveland wedges. I use an Odyssey putter that I've had for a while.
 
I play with Mizuno MP-14 forged irons, and Mizuno titanium driver and 3 wood, I absolutely love the irons although you need to be a single digit handicap to use them.
 
Exactly, I was a scratch golfer in college. Now I'm a 5. It just depends on how grooved your swing is. Nothing better than the sweet spot on forged blades, you can shape shots all day long.
 
I have hit the X-14 irons and really liked them. However since I am a first year FO I cannot afford them. I currently hit the Callaway Big Bertha Irons (graphite) and I really like them. I am not exactly a great golfer - my handicap is about 25 and I find the Bertha irons are fairly easy to hit - nice big sweet spot and an offset head. Works well for me. The real trick is jumpseating around with them - see other thread.
 
Golf....a lesson in anger management in which I fail every time. Wonder if they make any clubs that don't break or bend?
 
If you have both a swing and a bank account like mine ...

For something that hits like a Big Bertha iron (i.e. hugely forgiving) but doesn't cost big bucks ... try to find a used set of Top Flite 2000XLs (last years TF offering) or Cleveland TA-5s. You can pick these up used at around $200. Also, the older model Lynx Black Cats are pretty sweet, too.

When it comes to good, yet inexpensive drivers, IMHO there's nothing that compares to the first or second year plain old steel Big Berthas in an 11 or 12 degree loft (fewer 'nanner balls). Used at around $75.

Minh "Hacker" Thong
 
I swear by my Lynx Parallax irons. Great weight distribution and, as a result, very forgiving.

I have used a Big Bertha Hawkeye 9 degree driver and am in the market for one for myself. It is fairly forgiving, and if you have your tee box game on, you can really wax it with this thing.

Putter: Ping Pal II. Wouldn't use anything else.

If I had unlimited golf funds, I'd go buy myself a new set of custom Cleveland Classic irons.
 
Callaway X-14 Pro irons (steel shaft)
Callaway Hawkeye VFC 9' driver (graphite)
Callaway Steelhead Plus 3# (steel)
Callaway Big Bertha 5# (non Warbird, steel)
Cleveland 900 Forged wedges 52' & 60' (steel shaft, gunmetal)
Carbite center shafted putter

Ditto on the TA-5s. My wife plays a set of men's TA-5's with steel shafts. Paid only $330.00 new from Nevada Bobs in Vegas including a Cleveland carry bag. Teffific clubs. I wouldn't have any problem playing those if I couldn't afford the Callaways.

BTW, if you are anywhere near the eastern half of the country Dick's Sporting Goods was selling the X-14 Pros for $499.00 new. That is a heck of a deal. I think they also sell their products online too.
 
As a poor regional FO or CFI here is what you do. Go to Dick's Sporting Goods (or Sportmart, Kmart, whatever) and buy one of those $200 sets of clubs. Yeah, they may not be the worlds best clubs but in most peoples hands (myself included) you cannot tell the difference.

I bought one of those sets last year and I got a sweet bag, 13 clubs (including a PW that is completely illegal for PGA use), and a water bottle all for $200 bucks.

They beat the heck out of my mix and match handme downs that I use when I go back home (until last year I was still using a wooden driver).

Peace

Skeezer
 
I just bought 2 Titleist Vokey wedges and love them. However, just about all Titleist clubs are for "more accomplished players".
 
skeezer said:
(until last year I was still using a wooden driver).

Now what is wrong with the old Persimmons, I still use them, I just like the feel and sound they make when you strike the ball. Besides I don't know why but I can hit the ball further than I can with metal woods, and I have tried many.
 
mizuno t-zoid driver and titleist 975f 13.5 both with proforce 75s, dci 962s with steel dg s300s and two vokey wedges, along with a scotty cameron pro platinum is my set.

i caddy a lot, and i would have to say that the callaway irons are probably the best for the high to mid handicappers, with titleist and mizuno for the lower 'cappers. i see a lot of the newest callaway, taylor made and titleist(especially) woods right now. and you still cant beat a ping anser putter(which i occasionally switch into my bag when the scotty isnt rolling for me)
 
FlyChicaga said:
Well I went and picked up a Nike driver. 350CC, 10.5, about 45 inches long. I used the Nike golf calculator thing at www.nikegolf.com, and came up with that club.

Already PM'd you before I saw this post, but **CENSORED****CENSORED****CENSORED****CENSORED**, that calculator is accurate. I recently bought a Nike 400cc 10 degree.... chose it by going to the local club and hitting just about every kind of driver out there (King Cobra, Callaway, Titleist, etc..) and also hit a ton of different lofts and shaft types.... spent about two hours on the process and came down to the Nike I bought.

So then I go to that website a few minutes ago, spend less then 5 minutes answering questions and it picks the exact same head size, loft, length and stiffness that I bought....... pretty cool.
 
FlyChicaga,

Because you've been playing with a low priced set for the last few years; I assume you're a fairly high handicapper. If that's correct, and you really want to improve your game, use the money you would have spent on "high dollar" equipment for a series of lessons from an "active" golf teacher.

By this I mean someone who is giving lessons every day or almost every day, to a variety of students. Notice, I didn't say they had to be professionals, as in PGA professionals, although a PGA pro will certainly improve your game as much as anyone if they're actively teaching. I've had the best luck with guys who give regular lessons at driving ranges rather than the country club pros who generaly have a lot of other things on their minds and, as a bonus, they (the driving range teachers) are usually cheaper, a lot cheaper.

Take a lesson and then practice whatever you were told to do for a week or two before you take another lesson. Don't hesitate to change teachers if you aren't communicating and/or improving with your first choice.

I believe you'll find the investment in yourself will pay off many fold and after a season of progress you will be in a much better position to determine what type of equipment you really need (with the help of someone who fits clubs for a living).

There is almost no such thing as a natural golfer. Every golfer needs someone to help correct his or her faults (ask Tiger, he has a coach). You'll save yourself years of aggravation, learning and unlearning by trial and error, for just the cost of a few lessons. :)
 

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