Some answers?
I was always taught to climb out of iceing if you can, unless you know for a FACT that it is warmer lower or that you'll break out. The higher you get the colder it gets and maybe to cold for ice. And there is always the chance of an inversion sence cold air slices under warm air.
During a WS you don't want to change the configuration of the a/c. In most A/C the gear doors create a large amount of drag. Also in some A/C if you retract the gear and not the flaps you can get a horn which is distracting. That comes from the FSI manuel on WS.
De-ice fluids:
Type I is DEICING used to REMOVE ice, slush, and snow. Provides MINIMAL anti-ice protection.
Type II or IV ensure A/C remains clean after deiceing. Type IV is Gel Like and is thick, in many smaller A/C type IV is prohibited b/c of its weight.
As a caution type I, II, and IV are NOT compatible and can't be mixed.
Application of all 3 can be in spray form.
Type I is sprayed on to REMOVE contamination, and can be heated.
Type II is sprayed on to PROTECT from contamination, but is on a clean A/C. If type II is heated is will evoperate faster and in that case is considered Type I used again for REMOVAL.
Type IV is sprayed on to PROTECT from contamination, also on a clean A/C. It should be applied cold. Again it can be heated but in that case is considered Type I for REMOVAL only.

Confussed?
Type I De-Ice
Type II (cold) Anti-ice
Type IV (cold) Anti-ice
II or IV heated De-ice.
As a side note I suggest always de-iceing/anti-iceing starting at the cockpit. That way you can "assume" that if it remains clear so is the rest of the a/c. And don't forget your holdover times.
Dutch roll is fixed with yaw dampeners, strakes, V-tails, and I'm sure more. The first two you see on lots of A/C, some have both; CE 560XL, LR35(some), LR31, BE1900
Hope that helps.