Oh buddy, it's a MX hog. It was advanced for its time; You see, the Engineers designed with the nose close to the ground. The reason for this is so that it can automatically sniff out a mechanic. Innovative.
Seriously, think about what you are buying; a PISTON powered, turbo charged aircraft and the engines are also used to pressurize the aircraft and probably to deice the aircraft as well. That's a lot of work for a piston engine. Any piston engine is already trying to tear itself apart, then add all of those factors, and you have got a lot of stress. Those engines are putting out a lot of heat and we all know what heat does to engines. They are going to be expensive to maintain with what is available today.
If you do get one, try finding a full synthetic to run in the engines. People will tell you differently, but look, science it science, and a full synthetic will pull heat away from the engine and turbo as well as suspend the dirt/sludge in the engine. It'll clean the H#ll out of that engine. Years ago, Mobil put out a synthetic aircraft oil and they all leaked oil and people blamed the synthetic for that. In a sense, that was true, but the problem was the age of the engine, not the oil.
With any engine, aircraft or car, you can't just go putting synthetic oil in it. If the engine has some wear, and the seals have started to harden/crack, putting synthetic in there will do nothing but identify the leaks; ALL OF THEM. Synthetic is some slick stuff. That was the problem with the mobil oil. All these aircraft owners were putting it in engines that had hardened seals and it leaked everywhere. That was the problem. Get a Duke with fresh engines, and slap some full synthetic in there.
Along with the Oil:
1) Let the engine warm up totally at idle before you take off/apply take off power. That is a must. Pilots not letting that happen causes more damage to these Duke engines than anything else. The oil is not getting to every part of the engine (it's too thick because it is not heated to operating temperature)
2)DO NOT exercise the props during the run-up. That puts a great deal of stress on the engine and specifically the pistons. It bows them and it is unnecessary. When you apply Take off power, you'll know right away if there is a problem with the Prop governor.
3) At least 3 minutes at idle (or a little above. Just make sure the engine is not producing enough exhaust to power the turbo) before you shut it down. What this does is let the actual turbine wheel of the Turbo charger spool down while being lubricated with oil. that turbine spins at several thousand RMPs, and if you do not let it spool down with lubrication, the bearings coak, and it destroys the turbo. The lack of lubrication aggravates the heat build-up and there is nothing to take the heat away from the turbo.
4) Get a Pre-Oiler. Run it until oil pressure is at it's stabilized operating range and once that happens, start the clock and let it run for 30 seconds after the pressure is stabilized.
5) Plan your decents properly. People think shock cooling kills these engines and that is not the case. It certainly does not do them any favors, but it is not the end all. just don't be foolish about it. These engines have a lot of heat to go around. Think about it; trainers make it to over haul frequently, and they are shock cooled everytime they fly.
Those things alone with get you to OverHaul if you are religous about it. Good Luck.